Green
Twp., NJ
http://www.scoutsonline.com/troop184/
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1.
Every Scout and
Scouter joining Knot Masters will be given a test by a Knot Ninja and will be
assigned the appropriate starting rank and rope. Those not ready for the lowest
rank of Knotter will be given a string. Ropes or strings shall be worn on the
left side of scout belt secured with an appropriate Knot Master knot. The
smaller Knot Master pocket device may be worn on the right pocket.
2.
When a Scout or
Scouter proves he is ready for advancement by tying all the knots of the next
rank (and all prior ranks), as witnessed by two Scouts/Scouters of that rank or
higher, he shall trade in his old rope for a rope of the color of the next
rank.
3.
At any time not
interfering with other activities, a member may challenge another of equal or
lower rank, and if he cannot tie all his knots (three attempts each knot), he
shall be demoted to the next lower rank for not less than one week.
Disagreements shall be resolved by an adult Ninja. A member cannot be reduced
more than one rank per week.
4.
A member of any
rank may earn the supplemental qualifications of Lasher and Splicer, and shall
wear his rope with an overhand knot at the end of his rope for each.
5.
All rank
advancements and demotions shall be recorded in this booklet.
Scout
/ Scouter
Date
Issued
Approved
By – Knot Ninja
(White
Rope)
Perhaps the most basic knot,
useful as an end knot, the beginning of many knots, multiple knots make grips
along a lifeline. It can be difficult to untie when wet.
2. Loop Knot
The loop knot is simply the
overhand knot tied on a bight. It has many uses, including isolation of an
unreliable portion of rope.

The square or reef knot is the
most common knot for joining two ropes. It is easily tied and untied, and is
secure and reliable except when joining ropes of different sizes.
Two half hitches are often used to join a rope end to a post, spar or
ring.
5. Clove Hitch

Used by
Scouts for adjustable tent guy lines, the taut line hitch can be employed to
attach a second rope, reinforcing a failing one.

(Green
Rope)

More secure than a half hitch, the
timber hitch is often used by carpenters and lumber-men. It is often combined
with a half hitch further along the log.
9. Bowline
The most useful of knots, easily
tied and untied, non-slipping, the bowline is used to secure people and
animals.
10. Sheet Bend

The sheepshank is for
shortening ropes of any size, either temporarily or permanently.

The most commonly used
stopper knot tied at the bitter end of a rope.
13. Surgeon’s Knot
A square knot with an
extra trip to give added friction for holding while the second crossing is
made.

Useful for lifting a bar or post
straight up. Take four or five turns around the post, cross the end over and
add two half hitches to the standing part. Add another hitch higher on the
post.
(Red Rope)

The clinch knot is a quick and reliable method of attaching
flies or small lures to small lines.

The best knot for making a non-slip loop in the bight
of a rope.

A
bowline with two loops that may be of the same or different sizes.

A self tightening climbers knot for attaching a small
rope to a larger one. The smaller can be wrapped around the larger, four, six
or eight times.
19. Fisherman’s Knot
This knot is often used to join fine
line in fishing tackle.

A
hitch for attaching a rope to a hook or limb. Non-slipping and does not need
strain to stay in position.

Also called the barrel knot, it is used to join
fine line of equal diameter. A useful knot for fisherman.
(Gold
Rope)
22. French Bowline
A
bowline with two loops, with the portion between the two adjustable. A person
may sit in one loop with the other around his body, leaving the arms and legs
free. Useful for rescue.

A stopper
and heaving knot, similar but more elegant than the common Stevedore knot. The
size can be varied by the number of turns on the standing part of the rope.
24. Packer’s Knot
Used to begin wrapping a package.
Tie a figure eight knot around the standing part with the end emerging parallel
to the standing part. Make the first turn around the package by passing the
packers knot loop around the package and pulling it tight.

The Harness or Man Harness or
Artillery Knot is tied in the middle of a rope. It provides a grip to add power
to a hauling line.

This knot is used as the running
knot in a lariat for roping animals.
27. Constrictor
This is a tight holding seizing
knot for small line.

A
decorative knot, also used for heaving line or as a button.
Also known as Full or Double
Carrick Bend, Sailor's Knot and Anchor Bend. Beware! There are not many knots
with so many wrong drawings as this bend. The ends have to be on opposite sites
and the crossings always are alternating up/down/up/down. The Carrick Bend is
one of the best knots, possibly the nearest thing we have to a perfect bend. It
does not easily slip, not even if the rope is wet. And it is always easy to
untie, also after a heavy load..

(Figure
Eight Knot Left Rope End)

The shear lashing is used for legs
on pioneering projects. First tie a clove hitch around one spar, then bind the
two with five or six snug wrapping turns by weaving the rope back and forth
around the spars. Finish with two frapping turns between the spars and a clove
hitch to the second spar.

Square lashing is used whenever
spars cross at an angle and touch each other. Start with a clove or timber
hitch around the upright just below the crossing spar. Twist the loose end and
the standing part around each other to secure the hitch. Lash in front of and
up over the horizontal spar, then behind the upright and around the other side.
Repeat four times and end with a clove hitch on the horizontal spar.
3. Diagonal Lashing
Diagonal lashing is used to
“spring” together two spars that do not touch, but cross each other at an angle
between 45 and 90 degrees. Start with a timber hitch around both spars,
tightening to draw them together. Next take three or four turns around one
fork, then the other. Finish with two frapping turns and a clove hitch around
one spar.
4. Tripod Lashing
Lay the spars on the ground so
that their ends are even. Begin with a clove hitch on one of the end spars. Add
five or six snug wrapping turns by weaving the rope back and forth around the
spars. Take two frapping turns in the spaces between, pulling each tight.
Finish with a clove hitch on the third spar.

Round lashing is used to bind two
poles together, side-by-side. Position the poles beside each other and tie them
together with a clove hitch. Make seven or eight very tight, neat wraps around
the poles. Finish the with a clove hitch around both poles. There are no fraps
in a round lashing. The wraps must do all of the work. Make a second round
lashing further along the poles to keep them from twisting out of line.
SPLICER
(Monk’s Knot on Right Rope End)

The
short splice is most often used to join two sections of rope of the same size.

While
not often used the long splice is smooth. Unlay six times the circumference of
the rope. Marry the strands as in the short splice and hold them together.
Unlay 1A and fill its place with 2A until only enough remains for the final
hitch. Trim 1A to same length and hitch the two with an overhand, right to
left. Repeat with 2A and 2B. 1C and 2C are tied in the middle with the same
hitch.

The end or back splice is an alternative to whipping. Begin with a
crown knot and tuck the ends along the standing part as in a short splice.

Also called the side splice when used to splice one rope to another. It
is woven “onve over, one under” by twisting the rope to loosen strands.
(and
Demotion)
Knotter
_______________________________________
Approved
By Date
Hitcher________________________________________
Approved
By Date
Master________________________________________
Approved
By Date
Ninja__________________________________________
Approved
By Date
Splicer_________________________________________
Approved
By Date
Lasher_________________________________________
Approved
By Date
Hitch – Used to make a rope fast to another object
Bend – Secures two rope ends to each other
Lashing – Secures one object to another with rope.
Working End – Part of the rope being manipulated
Standing Part – Inactive section of the rope
Bight – Curved part no smaller than a semicircle
Yarn – Fibers twisted together
Thread – Two or more yarns twisted together
String – The same as thread using larger yarns
Strand – Two or more large yarns twisted together laid up right- handed into rope
Cord – Several threads twisted together
Rope – Several strands twisted together
Frap – To bind or wrap tightly
Spar – Rigid Pole
Visit these knotty web links
http://www.troop376.com/
(the Original Knot
Ninjas)
http://www.mistral.co.uk/42brghtn/knots/
http://www.realknots.com/knots/index.htm
http://members.aol.com/idfrank/knots.html
http://www.layhands.com/knots/Index.htm
http://www.netknots.com/index.html
http://www.earlham.edu/~peters/writing/explode.htm
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~dbffxcon/knots.html
http://www.2020site.org/knots/
http://members.aol.com/standcmr/braid.html
http://www.dfw.net/~jazzman/knotter/Fship.htm
And, of course