Knot Masters

BSA Troop 184

Green Twp., NJ

 

http://www.scoutsonline.com/troop184/








Larks Head


Knot Master’s Rope

                                                                                                               

 

 

1.       Every Scout and Scouter joining Knot Masters will be given a test by a Knot Ninja and will be assigned the appropriate starting rank and rope. Those not ready for the lowest rank of Knotter will be given a string. Ropes or strings shall be worn on the left side of scout belt secured with an appropriate Knot Master knot. The smaller Knot Master pocket device may be worn on the right pocket.

 

2.       When a Scout or Scouter proves he is ready for advancement by tying all the knots of the next rank (and all prior ranks), as witnessed by two Scouts/Scouters of that rank or higher, he shall trade in his old rope for a rope of the color of the next rank.


3.       At any time not interfering with other activities, a member may challenge another of equal or lower rank, and if he cannot tie all his knots (three attempts each knot), he shall be demoted to the next lower rank for not less than one week. Disagreements shall be resolved by an adult Ninja. A member cannot be reduced more than one rank per week.

 

 

4.       A member of any rank may earn the supplemental qualifications of Lasher and Splicer, and shall wear his rope with an overhand knot at the end of his rope for each.

 

5.       All rank advancements and demotions shall be recorded in this booklet.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Scout / Scouter

 

 

Date Issued

 

 

Approved By – Knot Ninja

 


KNOTTER

(White Rope)

 

    

 

1. Overhand Knot

 

Perhaps the most basic knot, useful as an end knot, the beginning of many knots, multiple knots make grips along a lifeline. It can be difficult to untie when wet.

 

 

 

2. Loop Knot

 

The loop knot is simply the overhand knot tied on a bight. It has many uses, including isolation of an unreliable portion of rope.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3. Square Knot

 

The square or reef knot is the most common knot for joining two ropes. It is easily tied and untied, and is secure and reliable except when joining ropes of different sizes.

 

 


4. Two Half Hitches

 

Two half hitches are often used to join a rope end to a post, spar or ring.

 

 

 

5. Clove Hitch

 

The clove hitch is a simple, convenient and secure method of fastening ropes to an object.

 

 

 

6. Taut-Line Hitch

Used by Scouts for adjustable tent guy lines, the taut line hitch can be employed to attach a second rope, reinforcing a failing one.

 

 

 

 

7. Slip Knot

A simple knot of many uses. Also called the noose knot, it is a useful snare for small animals.


HITCHER

(Green Rope)

8. Timber Hitch

 

More secure than a half hitch, the timber hitch is often used by carpenters and lumber-men. It is often combined with a half hitch further along the log.

 

 

9. Bowline

 

The most useful of knots, easily tied and untied, non-slipping, the bowline is used to secure people and animals.

 

 

10. Sheet Bend

 

A General utility bend tied to a bight in another end. Easily tied and untied, even when wet. Can be doubled or slipped.

 

 

 

 


11. Sheepshank

The sheepshank is for shortening ropes of any size, either temporarily or permanently.

 

 

 

 

 

 

12. Figure Eight

 

The most commonly used stopper knot tied at the bitter end of a rope.

 

 

 

 

13. Surgeon’s Knot

 

A square knot with an extra trip to give added friction for holding while the second crossing is made.

 

 

14. Pipe Hitch

Useful for lifting a bar or post straight up. Take four or five turns around the post, cross the end over and add two half hitches to the standing part. Add another hitch higher on the post.

 

 


KNOT MASTER

(Red Rope)

 

15. Clinch Knot

The clinch knot is a quick and reliable method of attaching flies or small lures to small lines.

 

 

 

 

16. Alpine Butterfly

 

The best knot for making a non-slip loop in the bight of a rope.

 

 

 

17. Bowline on a Bight

A bowline with two loops that may be of the same or different sizes.         


                                                    

18. Prusik Knot

A self tightening climbers knot for attaching a small rope to a larger one. The smaller can be wrapped around the larger, four, six or eight times.

         

 

 

 

 

 

 

19. Fisherman’s Knot

 

This knot is often used to join fine

line in fishing tackle.

 

 

20. Cats Paw

 

A hitch for attaching a rope to a hook or limb. Non-slipping and does not need strain to stay in position.

 

 

 

21. Blood Knot

 


Also called the barrel knot, it is used to join fine line of equal diameter. A useful knot for fisherman.


KNOT NINJA

(Gold Rope)

 

22. French Bowline

 

A bowline with two loops, with the portion between the two adjustable. A person may sit in one loop with the other around his body, leaving the arms and legs free. Useful for rescue.

 

 

 

23. Monk’s Knot

A stopper and heaving knot, similar but more elegant than the common Stevedore knot. The size can be varied by the number of turns on the standing part of the rope.

 

 

 

24. Packer’s Knot

 

Used to begin wrapping a package. Tie a figure eight knot around the standing part with the end emerging parallel to the standing part. Make the first turn around the package by passing the packers knot loop around the package and pulling it tight.

 

25. Harness

The Harness or Man Harness or Artillery Knot is tied in the middle of a rope. It provides a grip to add power to a hauling line.

 

 


26. Lariat Loop

 

This knot is used as the running knot in a lariat for roping animals.

 

 

 

27. Constrictor

 

This is a tight holding seizing knot for small line.

 

 

 

28. Monkey’s Fist

 


A decorative knot, also used for heaving line or as a button.

 


29. Carrick Bend

 

Also known as Full or Double Carrick Bend, Sailor's Knot and Anchor Bend. Beware! There are not many knots with so many wrong drawings as this bend. The ends have to be on opposite sites and the crossings always are alternating up/down/up/down. The Carrick Bend is one of the best knots, possibly the nearest thing we have to a perfect bend. It does not easily slip, not even if the rope is wet. And it is always easy to untie, also after a heavy load..


LASHER

(Figure Eight Knot Left Rope End)

1. Shear Lashing

 

The shear lashing is used for legs on pioneering projects. First tie a clove hitch around one spar, then bind the two with five or six snug wrapping turns by weaving the rope back and forth around the spars. Finish with two frapping turns between the spars and a clove hitch to the second spar.

 

 

 

2. Square Lashing

 

Square lashing is used whenever spars cross at an angle and touch each other. Start with a clove or timber hitch around the upright just below the crossing spar. Twist the loose end and the standing part around each other to secure the hitch. Lash in front of and up over the horizontal spar, then behind the upright and around the other side. Repeat four times and end with a clove hitch on the horizontal spar.

 

 

3. Diagonal Lashing

 

Diagonal lashing is used to “spring” together two spars that do not touch, but cross each other at an angle between 45 and 90 degrees. Start with a timber hitch around both spars, tightening to draw them together. Next take three or four turns around one fork, then the other. Finish with two frapping turns and a clove hitch around one spar.

 

 

4. Tripod Lashing

 

Lay the spars on the ground so that their ends are even. Begin with a clove hitch on one of the end spars. Add five or six snug wrapping turns by weaving the rope back and forth around the spars. Take two frapping turns in the spaces between, pulling each tight. Finish with a clove hitch on the third spar.

 

 

5. Round Lashing

Round lashing is used to bind two poles together, side-by-side. Position the poles beside each other and tie them together with a clove hitch. Make seven or eight very tight, neat wraps around the poles. Finish the with a clove hitch around both poles. There are no fraps in a round lashing. The wraps must do all of the work. Make a second round lashing further along the poles to keep them from twisting out of line.

 

 


SPLICER

(Monk’s Knot on Right Rope End)

 

1. Short Splice

 

The short splice is most often used to join two sections of rope of the same size.                                         

         

  

 

 

 

 

2. Long Splice

While not often used the long splice is smooth. Unlay six times the circumference of the rope. Marry the strands as in the short splice and hold them together. Unlay 1A and fill its place with 2A until only enough remains for the final hitch. Trim 1A to same length and hitch the two with an overhand, right to left. Repeat with 2A and 2B. 1C and 2C are tied in the middle with the same hitch.

 

 


3. End Splice


 

 


The end or back splice is an alternative to whipping. Begin with a crown knot and tuck the ends along the standing part as in a short splice.

 

 

 

4. Eye Splice

 

Also called the side splice when used to splice one rope to another. It is woven “onve over, one under” by twisting the rope to loosen strands.

 

 

 

 


Advancement

(and Demotion)

 

 

 

Knotter _______________________________________

               Approved By                                         Date

 

 

 

Hitcher________________________________________

               Approved By                                         Date

 

 

 

Master________________________________________

               Approved By                                         Date

 

 

 

Ninja__________________________________________

               Approved By                                         Date

 

 

 

Splicer_________________________________________

               Approved By                                         Date

 

 

 

Lasher_________________________________________

               Approved By                                         Date

 


Ropers Dictionary

 

Hitch – Used to make a rope fast to another object

 

Bend – Secures two rope ends to each other

 

Lashing – Secures one object to another with rope.

 

Working End – Part of the rope being manipulated

 

Standing Part – Inactive section of the rope

 

Bight – Curved part no smaller than a semicircle

 

Yarn – Fibers twisted together

 

Thread – Two or more yarns twisted together

 

String – The same as thread using larger yarns

 

Strand – Two or more large yarns twisted together laid up right-      handed into rope

 

Cord – Several threads twisted together

 

Rope – Several strands twisted together

 

Frap – To bind or wrap tightly

 

Spar – Rigid Pole

 

 

Visit these knotty web links

http://www.troop376.com/    (the Original Knot Ninjas)

http://www.mistral.co.uk/42brghtn/knots/

http://www.realknots.com/knots/index.htm

http://members.aol.com/idfrank/knots.html

http://www.layhands.com/knots/Index.htm

http://www.netknots.com/index.html
http://www.earlham.edu/~peters/writing/explode.htm

http://www.home.earthlink.net/~dbffxcon/knots.html

http://www.korpegard.nu/knot/

http://www.2020site.org/knots/

http://members.aol.com/standcmr/braid.html

http://www.dfw.net/~jazzman/knotter/Fship.htm

 

And, of course

 

http://www.scoutsonline.com/troop184/